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I was browsing an old surf mag earlier this morning and came across an article by Gerry Lopez, a guy I aspire to be like in many ways. Most important to me is that he is just one cool guy! But most may know of him as a surfer, a surfboard shaper, an actor who has played surfers in "mainstream" surf movies such as North Shore and Big Wednesday (he cameos as himself in this one). He's an environmentalist, a contributing writer to surf periodicals and a guy who is interviewed as well as surfs in a whole lot of…. I guess I can call them “non-mainstream” surf movies, the ones you only see in surf shops.
All that said, what I admire most about him is his: down to earth, humble, compassionate and zen-like attitude towards life. I have never met him, but all these qualities come thru in interviews and articles...
At any rate, on page 84 in the December 2007 issue of SURFING magazine that I picked up from a magazine rack in my bathroom this morning
He writes: "Life is quite a journey, we find something we like and immediately build a fence around it to keep it the same. Then something else comes along and we are over that fence in a flash without hardly a look back."
Gerry is talking about surf destinations and surf travel, but the idea seems to be applicable to our attention span towards anything really...
hmmm... I'm feeling restless now, I feel like climbing over a fence and discovering something new, what ever it may be. And the weird thing is, I don't think I'm necessarily yearning to be in some far off destination. I'm thinking maybe it's more about being able to know someone, to really get to know someone in a way like. . like getting to know a new place, like familiarizing yourself with a neighborhood you just moved into. I don't know really... but anybody want to hop some fences?
Sunday, April 20, 2008
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